In North Sunnyvale’s Moffett Park, near the bay, the Tetra Hotel — one of Marriott’s signature Autograph Collection properties — has sprung up, along with a sister hotel AC. And with the opening comes a sleek new restaurant, Adrestia, helmed by a longtime Japanese-born and trained California chef. We stopped in the first week to check it out. Here is what we found:
THE LOOK: Sleek and airy, with angular architecture designed by Gabellini Sheppard, high ceilings, and organic elements in public areas – lobbies, restaurants, and bars. A covered outdoor space called Nexus sits between the two hotels, offering alfresco dining options. Soon this sculpture-filled space will be activated with wine tastings, artist events and more.
THE ATMOSPHERE: The first diners inside Adrestia were residents of Sunnyvale who had followed Tetra’s construction. This space also feels very Silicon Valley, with the return of tech travelers and the unmasking of Santa Clara County. On this midweek evening, the restaurant was serving a healthy complement of diners, all well spaced out in the 52-seat restaurant which has a live communal wooden table. Thanks to high ceilings and a cool soundtrack, the noise level remained a pleasant hum and conversation was easy on our side of the room. (Okay, we heard one of the software visitors say the words “stock price.”) Other hotel guests and visitors were already filling Nokori, the expansive bar.
THE FOOD: Look for a Japanese-inspired California menu that features seasonal ingredients. Executive Chef Hideki Myo (Westin Tokyo, Westin St. Francis, Hyatt Fisherman’s Wharf) is a 25-year veteran of Bay Area cuisines who prides himself on balancing flavors and textures in sometimes surprising ways. The cold-smoked beef carpaccio ($24) is brushed with a whiskey-aged soybean and served with a tea leaf salad. The impressive whole-fish dish to share, Tempura Snapper (market price), pairs crispy fillets with Korean barbecue glaze and crispy noodle salad. Myo elevates Adrestia’s burger with Wagyu beef, tangy togarashi cheese and miso aioli ($25). And crispy cardamom streusel, frosted pistachios and a slice of Satsuma add texture and interest to the silky Chai Panna Cotta ($12).
Vegetable dishes include Brussels Sprouts and Farro Risotto with Elephant Garlic, Oven-Dried Tomatoes, Crispy Fennel and Taleggio Cheese ($24) and Roasted Tricolor Carrots, tossed with avocado, blood orange and crunchy sprouts ($17).
Near the dining room, the hotel’s Coffee Manufactory cafe offers drinks made with sustainably sourced beans from this Oakland-based roaster; take-out sandwiches like katsu ($11) or egg salad ($6) on milk bread; and artisan chocolates from Deux Cranes de Los Gatos. Coming soon: Tartine Manufacture of pastries.
THE THROATS : Japanese whiskies, including some rare and premium bottles, are the stars of Tetra’s Nokori bar. An innovative Suntory highball machine dispenses Japanese highballs in what has been determined to be the perfect whiskey to sparkling water ratio. Besides the Classic with Suntory Toki ($13), there are some intriguing variations such as the Remon Highball with Iced Lemon ($15) and the Dram & Grain, Nikka Days Whiskey with Apple Soda ($21). A non-alcoholic Chowa Highball ($12) mixes matcha syrup, soda water and peach bitters.
DO NOT MISS : If you love lobster rolls, step out of your Maine/Connecticut style comfort zone and order Chef Myo’s Mini Grilled Lobster Sando ($20). Furikake-dusted milk bread is filled with lobster and laced with spicy togarashi cheese and bechamel, with miso aioli on the side. It’s small but very filling, perfect for a shared aperitif or a small meal.
DISCUSS WITH YOURSELF: The massive acrylic sculpture by artist John Burtle on the wall of Adrestia is called “He Loves Me, He Loves Me Not”. Look closely and you will see that it resembles a steel-hued flower. Will the object of desire have disappeared by the time the lover finishes tearing off the hundreds of imaginary petals?
GOOD TO KNOW: The VTA Orange Line trolley runs along Java Drive right outside the hotel, so it’s a quick trip from Borregas Station one block to Levi’s Stadium for concerts and football games. If you are driving here for a meal, there is free validated parking.
DETAILS: Open daily for dinner (5pm-10pm), with breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch in early April. 400 W. Java Drive, Sunnyvale. www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/sjcva-tetra-hotel-autograph-collection/dining/